Moloka'i

Rachel and the others headed for Moloka’i face the winds of the journey, locked in a crowded pen on the deck of the steamer, unlike the crew or paying guests who are sheltered from the elements. Approaching Kalaupapa Peninsula, Rachel sees the towering cliff, called a pali, rise up like a fortress, and is awed by its vastness. As those exiled to Kalaupapa travel to shore in boats of five, the outlines of those on the shore become visible. Rachel notices, in spite of their tumors and lesions, they’re all smiling.

As she disembarks her rowboat, Rachel sees Pono and runs into his arms. Rachel meets Haleola, his lover and a healer. Ambrose Hutchinson, a patient and resident superintendent, checks Rachel in. As they leave the shore, Rachel and Haleola discuss Kalaupapa and Haleola explains that she and Pono live in Kalawao. The site of the original colony, Kalawao was chosen for its cold weather, but, as Haleola explains, the government will move everyone to Kalaupapa eventually. Offering the history of the colony, Haleola tells Rachel that she came originally to take care of Keo, her husband, before contracting leprosy herself.

Haleola tells Rachel she has three children, who are grown, and whom she hasn’t seen in 23 years.